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Milan & Paris Fashion Week


With the wrapping up of the Milanand Paris Fashion Weeks, new trends have emerged, stamping what AO forecasted to be the looks of Spring/Summer 2012. Following the minimalistic theme, the silhouettes have been simple and minimal, followed by structured looks, patterns and even loosely flared garment pieces complementing our sheer theme. For the coming season there will be an evident focus on colour, fabrics, texture and embellishment as opposed to silhouettes in the previous seasons. Following the London Fashion Week,Paris was strong on sporty details along with a lot of patch-work and structured silhouettes. Many designers like Alexander McQueen, Givenchy and Chanel were inspired from life under the sea, which gave their collections a very feminine and sensual feel.Milan, on the other hand flaunted a more twenties-art deco style, with designers like Gucci, Etro, Armani, Roberto Cavalli and Alberta Ferretti showcasing varied adaptations of popular styles of that era. Also followingLondon,Milan showcased a lot of mid-riff baring crop tops, used for layering and styling generally directing towards a season of cropped and short lengths. Overall, the season is mostly about fun, with the most popular trends being colour-blocking, embellishments, shiny fabrics and brightly coloured prints…

Softened in Pastels

Paris and Milan both seemed to agree on a soft and subdued pastel colour palette for the coming summer, flaunting colours like pink, blue, green, yellow, purple and turquoise. Seen as both solid shades and in prints, these colours were soothing to the eyes, and were complemented with soft and minimal shapes. Another palette followed by some, consisted of classic colours like all black and all white contrasting these icy-candy hues, in a wide variety of designs and patterns.

Seen at: Lanvin, Yves Saint Lauren, Christopher Kane, Prada, Moschino Cheap and Chic, Sportmax.

Colour it Blue!

Bright tones and hues of blue, teal, turquoise and sea green seemed to be the colours of both fashion weeks but in different interpretations. WhilePariswas more inclined towards richer tones of blue,Milanflamboyantly showcased teals and turquoises. Giving the soft and seductive effect of the ocean, these colours were appropriately used in solid coloured flowy gowns and flirty cocktail dresses, highlighting the femininity of the colour. The sheer and flowy fabrics used by the designers to adapt in these shades added to the sensual mood of this colour.

Seen at: Yves Saint Lauren, Azzaro, Salvatore Ferragamo, Antonio Marras,AlbertaFerretti, Max Mara, Missoni and Bottega Veneta.

It’s all loose  

The silhouettes at large for the summer of 2012 have become loose and androgynous. Following the footsteps ofLondonandNew York, theMilanandParisrunways also showcased a lot of loose styles. On one handParisseemed to be more structured, giving a boxy shape to loose garments, on the otherMilanwas towards a semi-fit, with cinched in waists imparting an hourglass illusion to loose garments. While trousers have become more relaxed and the tunics have become box-fit, the dresses and tops have become A-line, and some, even flared.

Seen at: Jil Sander, Celine, Hermes, Christian Dior, Dolce and Gabbana, Dries Van Noten, Louis Vuitton, Marni and Max Mara.

Summer of Outerwear

Following the popular summer outerwear trend, bothMilanandParisflaunted jackets, trenches, blazers and overcoats in abundance. WhileMilanshowcased more statement jackets,Pariswas more tailored and sleek. The solid coloured and structured jackets atMilanwere observed in huge contrast to the brightly printed and extravagant ones atParis. Besides experimenting with the variation in lengths, the designers have also explored varied patterns in lapel details and closures.

Seen at: Dries Van Noten, Junya Watanabe, Lanvin, Givenchy, Celine, Prada, Sportmax, Roberto Cavalli, Gucci and Moschino.

See-through in Sheer

The growing popularity of sheer fabrics was heightened by the abundance of these fabrics both atMilanandParis. Although some designers stuck to the same style of flowy and romantic gowns, other designers used sheer in different ways such as layering, combining with lace, printing with unusual patterns and experimenting with the layers underneath. Being such a soft fabric, sheer has been utilized to give volume, texture, height as well as sensuality to the runway outfits.

Seen at: Nina Ricci, Christian Dior, Valentino, Versus, Max Mara, Jil Sander, Marni andAlbertaFerretti.

Print it over & all

As compared toLondonand New York Fashion Weeks, the prints at the Milan and Paris runways had a cultural mix, resulting in a global kitsch look with lots of colour; as opposed to the clear and defined floral and tribal prints seen inEurope. Apart from being colourful and collaged, some prints flaunted motifs like flowers, fruits, vegetables, organic-shaped stripes, abstract patterns and some cultural symbols. Most of these were an eclectic mix of prints and designs, adapted in overall printed patterns.

Seen at: Jil Sander, Dries Van Noten, Ungaro, Dolce and Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli, Antonio Marras and Marni.

Embellished and Gold

The runways ofMilanandParishighlighted the oncoming of the festive season with the display of exceptionally embellished garments. Designers atParisseemed to be fascinated with the idea of motifs, whileMilanwas more about textured overall embellishments. Bright gold, silver, gunmetal and even colourful sequins adorned the fashion weeks, creating a stir with their bright luminosity. The usage of gold, especially in beading and texturing, was the most prominent.

Seen at: Roberto Cavalli, Balmain, Azzaro, Chanel and Louis Vuitton.

Patent and Shine

With the fashion world embracing the ‘bling’ factor with all the embellishments, shiny fabrics are not far behind. Shiny Lurex fabric, sequin and bead studded garments, metallic colours and plastic-like fabrics shimmered on the runways. Mostly used to make simplistic silhouettes, the designers atMilanandParistook a step further by foraying into layering, textures and even structuring with such fabrics. With a very progressive yet fashionable appeal, these ensembles might represent the near future of the fashion runways.

Seen at: Roberto Cavalli, Balmain, Chanel, Christopher Kane, Givenchy, Manish Arora, Max Mara, Sport Max and Salvatore Ferragamo.



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