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London Fashion Week

LONDON FASHION WEEK… New loose yet prim,

casual yet sporty looks for SPRING / SUMMER 2012…

Following the energy observed at New York, the London Fashion Week kick-started with an explosion of bold fashion statements and styles along with newer innovations in fabrics, styling and details. Owing to the approaching Olympics 2012, ‘sports’ was a strong influence in most of the collections, whether in terms of silhouettes or in terms of accessories. As AO analyses, the overall look stamped forLondon is structured but yet very loose, along with a lot of eclectic styling. There was a noticeable shift from the general preference of dresses to separate pieces in the bottoms category like skirts, trousers and shorts which are paired with tops, shirts, blouses and varying lengths in tunics. Prints that are foliage inspired and textures with fabrics and embellishments played a key role, while a number of caftan inspired shapes were also observed reaffirming the emerging beachwear trend in a more day-to-day lifestyle. The most popular look seemed to be the ‘PRIM’ look, with neatly buttoned-up shirts tucked into pleated skirts which might become the look for seasons to come in future with the colour ‘Yellow’ tagged for London.


Other colours than ‘Yellow’…


The summer definitely seemed brighter and happier atLondon, with numerous designers looking at candy hues along with pastel tones like soft turquoise, green, peach, pink, cream and white. The most popular colour ofLondonwas undoubtedly ‘yellow’, seen on solid coloured dresses, as a highlight colour, base colour for a print and in varied hues and saturations, as shades ranging from bright lemons to dull and sober ochre were observed.

Seen at: Richard Nicholl, Felder Felder, Meadham Kirchhoff, Christopher Kane, Antipodium, Roksanda Ilincic.

Loosen up your ‘Lowers’


Lowers showcased at London were mostly relaxed with a strong holiday feel in them. Going hand in hand with the trends that were observed on theNew Yorkrunways, the silhouette was mostly loose, be it trousers, shorts or even skirts. Full flared skirts, loose shorts, trousers with a relaxed fit or dropped crotch and even pajama-like trousers seemed to be designers’ favourite choice for the coming spring. Soft fabrics like satin, chiffon, georgette in solid colours as well as prints adorned the silhouettes in endless interpretations.

Seen at: Acne, Clements Ribiero, Emilio De La Morela, Erdem, JaegerLondon, Vivienne Westwood Red Label.




Tropical and Tribal in ‘Prints’


The prints at London were a very tasteful mix of culture with modernity. On one hand, African tribal patterns and traditional techniques were observed, and on the other there were very bright and modern tropical prints with a lot of flowers and modern shapes, making it an urban kitsch. Ethnic designs like paisleys, ikat-like patterns were present in contrast with other child-like and bold prints, which were also seen inNew York. Colours like earthy greens, browns and yellows were brightened by bright tones of reds, pinks, blues and greens.

Seen at: Burberry, David Koma, Fashion Fringe, Felder Felder, Issa, J W Anderson, Jonathan Saunders, Mary Katrantzou, Matthew Williamson, Mulberry, Pringle OfScotland, PPQ.


Embellish it with ‘Texture’

With the silhouettes becoming more relaxed, minimal and free-flowing; the designers seemed to put more focus on fabrics, texture and embellishments.Londonshowed both intricate sequin work as well as bold patches of sequins, beads and shimmer along with big sized beads in bright as well as toned down colours. There was also a prominent presence of lace and embroidered fabrics used as a base for simpler silhouettes, which portrays a modern interpretation of the popular vintage trend.

Seen at: Burberry, Felder Felder, Meadham Kirchoff, Sass & Bide.




Ice it up with ‘Shine’


The most exciting and rather a fresh innovation at London Fashion Week was the use of shiny fabrics like PVC and patent leather in bright colours and metallic tones. Paired in an aesthetic contrast with dull pieces, designers used these fabrics in outerwear to uplift the look of an ensemble and give it a popularly recognized 60’s vibe. Coloured in icy tones of silver, yellow, pinks and beige, these fabrics have made a strong statement in the minds and hearts of a lot of forecasters.

Seen at: Giles, Todd Lynn, Christopher Kane, Julien Macdonald, Richard Nicoll, Sass & Bide.





Clothes that play ‘Sports’


Right in time of the Olympics 2012 games to be held in London next year, there was a very strong presence of sports on the London runways, which will also lead to a lot of sportswear inspired clothing on the streets next year. While some designers at the mens-week dedicated their collections to Olympics earlier, in a similar fashion many women’s wear collections also flaunted sports-like detailing like contrast piping’s, mesh fabrics and the wide usage of knits in body-conscious silhouettes. Technology based prints in neon colours, toned down with soft and earthy colours impart the feeling of movement and performance.

Seen at: Peter Pilotto, Johnathan Saunders, Clemence Ribiero, Marios Schwab, PPQ.



Crop up your ‘Uppers’


Complementing the trend for lowers, the tops seen atLondonwere also loose, following very simple shapes in silhouettes. The most basic shapes like tunics, cropped tops and loose shirts were used widely. Soft and sheer fabrics in muted tones were seen contrasting jersey tops and brightly printed and coloured crop tops. Used as layering pieces, loose tops and cropped tops were the most versatile feature of the London Fashion Week.

Seen at: Topshop, Jaegar London, Burberry, Felder Felder, Louise Gray.






Outerwear with ‘Blazers’


Encouraging the new outerwear trend for summers,Londonshowcased blazers, trenches and jackets in almost every collection. From Smart fitted blazers worn over formal trousers, loose tuxedo jackets thrown casually over a pair of denims to short and edgy bomber jackets;Londonprovided every style of outerwear, with the blazers being the most popular. Mostly seen in solid and neutral colours, some designers had used light twills and other textured fabrics to add more texture to the whole look.

Seen at: Burberry, Matthew Williamson, Paul Smith, PPQ, Mary Katrantzou, Mulberry.



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